Modern Baroque Details

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Details are everything as evident in the magic of Jacob Hashimoto’s multi-colored collaged kite elements and the exquisite moments such as the concrete tiled beading seen in the Chanel Fall 2014 Couture Collection. Channeling the vibrance that is derived from beautiful juxtapositions I carry this through every detail. Here I document the complete look journey, through makeup, hair, and nails. I fell for the delicate heavy metal makeup look that Andrew Sotomayor for Chanel Beauty gave me, a modified version from the Fall 2014 Haute Couture runway. Staying Chanel through and through, manicurist Gina Viviano recreated Jacob’s mosaic patterned kites on my nails using Chanel’s Frenzy nail color as a base and then layered on the graphic shapes with Eastern Light and Orage. Lastly, my beloved friend and hair stylist, Cosma De Marinis drew inspiration from the giant floating cubes in the installation and built a geometric sculpture on top of my head by way of a tea box. Full detail disclosure of all things beauty below.

Andrew Sotomayor (Chanel Beauty): I adapted this look from the makeup for the Fall 2014 Haute Couture show and tweaked it to suit Pari. To get the look yourself, follow my tips below.

Since the look involves a very shimmery lid, I chose to start with the eye makeup first. First, I applied the silvery-white Illusion D’Ombre in Fantasme across just the mobile part of the lid using Large Shadow Brush #25. I added some into the inner corners as well using the Large Tapered Blending Brush #19. To help the cream shadow stay put, I pressed the lightest and the medium shades from Quadra Eyeshadow palette 93 Smoky Eyes, right on top. Using a patting motion helps to press on layers of shadow and increase the shine.

To get the winged cat eye effect, I used the La Ligne De Chanel Noir Lame cake eyeliner, three different ways. First, I wet the Precision Liner brush #13, picked up some liner, and swept it across her lashes. I used Contour Shadow Brush #14 to smudge the liner into the roots of her lashes. Then I used the liner again and a “press-and-drag” motion to create the wing, starting from the outer corner of the eye and pulling towards the center. Finally to create that deep dark line on the inner water line, I applied liner through the entire lower line on both eyes. I had Pari “squish” her eyes shut nice and tight to transfer liner to the top eye, then repeated the action once more. It stayed through the entire shoot without touching up, and it’s still the easiest product to remove at the end of the day.

I took the darker shade of Ombres Constraste Duo in Taupe Delicat through the brows using Angled Brow Brush #12, then made the brow crisper by sweeping the lighter shade across the brow bone using Concealer Brush #10.

To make Pari’s lashes look even fuller I used my favorite Chanel mascara, Inimitable in Black. I applied one coat, curled, and then applied a second coat. The trick is to press the narrow half of the brush right into the roots of the lashes. When you pull it away, it appears that you’ve applied eyeliner right between the roots of your lashes. I haven’t found another mascara that can do this.

To perfect the skin, I misted her lightly with Hydra Beauty Essence Mist and a pea sized amount of Hydra Beauty Gel Creme. Then, to give the skin brightness, and help the foundation apply more easily, I applied a Hydra Beauty Gel Creme all over using Foundation Brush #6. I wanted to just add some warmth, and a bit more polish without excessive coverage, so I used the same brush to apply Perfection Lumiere Velvet #40 Beige all over. To ensure that the makeup was perfectly blended, I went over it again with a clean Blending Foundation Brush #7. Not only does it make sure that the product disappears into the skin, it also gives it more of a glow. It’s the same effect as polishing a jewel.

Even the best of us needs a little concealer and I find that most of the time, one shade truly isn’t enough to look like you’re perfectly rested. To appear perfect Photoshopped even in real life try this! Apply Lift Lumiere in Apricot just to the inner corners to color correct any grey areas, then sketch Eclat Lumiere in 10 Beige Tendre under the entire eye and swept out across the cheekbones. Magic.

With a strong eye look like this, I like the face to be neutral, so I swept the Soleil Tan De Chanel Bronzing Makeup Base under the cheekbones for just a little warmth and a sculpted effect. I enhanced her cheekbones further using Les Beiges #50 for subtle contour. It was rainy outside that day, and I wanted to make sure her skin glowed without being too dewy, so I chose to highlight her cheekbones using Illusion D’Ombre in Emerveille using Blending Foundation Brush #7. It looks like dewy skin, but this technique ensures you shine only where you want to.

I love a nude lip, when it has just enough color to define your pout, and just enough pink to still look healthy. In this case, I applied Rouge Coco in Beige Felin, topped with Rouge Allure Extrait de Gloss in Insouciance for fullness with a creamy shine.

Cosma De Marinis: To create Pari’s sculptural updo I began by drying her hair upside down. I started to give the hair some texture and brushed it into a high ponytail. I then put a cardboard tea box on top of her head, the two opposite sides of the box were cut out so I was to able to secure it firmly to the top of the head with bobby pins. Then I sectioned a thin veil of hair from the ponytail, sprayed it with Elnett Satin Extra Strong Hairspray and began creating the shape around the box continuing to section and wrap the hair until it was covered completely. I used the flat iron to smooth the hair and define the edges. Lastly, I used Kiehl’s Crème with Silk Groom for added luster and smooth texture.

Chanel Fall 2014 Couture

Mary Boone Gallery, Jacob Hashimoto, Skyfarm Fortress

Hair by Cosma De Marinis, Makeup by Andrew Sotomayor for Chanel Beauty, Nails by Gina Viviano for Chanel Beauty, Photographs by Tylor Hou

Couture in the Sky

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In my perfect world all collisions of art and fashion would come together as this. Here at Mary Boone Gallery, I found that glimmering pairing, one which holds a sense of possibility and pushes all things surrounding it towards inventiveness. At the heart of Jacob Hashimoto and Karl Lagerfeld’s creations is an evidence of the hand marked by an obsessive attention to detail delivered with flawless execution. That to me is perfection, modern and whimsical yet calculated so once put forth in its surroundings it can be set free. My heart can’t help but smile, at Karl Lagerfeld’s description of his Chanel Fall 2014 Couture Collection, “the whole thing is actually a journey from Corbusier to Versailles…” a magical one at that, where here we have his ruby red sculpted gown, laser cut and embellished with plastic rosettes. In a moment that is decidedly fresh, the molded dress is set free with a chic flat finished with ankle ribbons. Allowing me to glide amongst the landscape of floating cubes that is Jacob’s Skyfarm Fortress. Brutalist and light, architectural and wild, the juxtapositions that spur intrigue are represented on high. Explorations in the union of art and couture continue in my interview with the artist with more details into my bird like inspired look to come.

Chanel Fall 2014 Couture gown & sandals

Mary Boone Gallery, Jacob Hashimoto, Skyfarm Fortress

Hair by Cosma De Marinis, Makeup by Andrew Sotomayor for Chanel Beauty, Photographs by Tylor Hou

An Interview with the Artist: Jacob Hashimoto

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PE: My first impression of your work and the emotion I attached to it was the evidence of the hand. Your use of paper a very tactile material, collage, and the express knots all impart a sense of handmade. This is in great part why I was so thrilled to pair your work with the Chanel Couture pieces, the exquisite craftsmanship that goes into each piece. How did you start working with this material, why were you drawn to the medium?

JH: I started working with these kite-like elements nearly 20 years ago now when I was still a student at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. At the time that I started using the kites, I was actually building them to fly in Grant Park and I guess that the craft and attention to detail migrated into my artwork. Materially speaking, I guess that my use of the paper, the wood, and the knotted strings all developed pretty organically out of my kite flying practice. Lots of people are curious about my nearly exclusive use of Japanese papers, wondering if it is somehow a reflection of my (half) Japanese heritage, but, truthfully, I think that I use it because it’s stronger, more supple, more absorbent, and simply better for my specific collage application. I’ve experimented with innumerable other papers, but keep coming back to wash. It has a range of properties that is intriguing and allows me to constantly experiment, adapt, and expand my visual vocabulary.

PE: The sheer number of kite elements in your Skyfarm Fortress and perfection in the alignment of the different cubes within the grid is absolutely awe-inspiring. One cannot help but think about the labor intensive, somewhat obsessive nature of the work. I was wondering how many kite components make up the piece, how long did the install take, and how many people were involved?

JH: I think that there are between 20 and 30 thousand elements in the artwork, but I honestly didn’t count. I do know that I arrived on site with about 30 thousand square elements….and we took some home. The installation itself took about a month working with my seven assistants.

PE: Although there is a rigidness attached to the labor and the use of a Brutalist architectural grid, the balletic components seems to free the work of any type of heavy quality and there is a simplicity in the understanding of how something is made. Are you personally attracted to work that is minimal in the sense that one can see how it is made or are you too interested in work where the process is a mystery?

JH: Good question. I like that there’s very little mystery in how the artwork is actually made. It’s the labor and the focus and the precision that drives it to the next level. Obviously, a lot of the specific design decisions may seem like a mystery to those outside my head, but I think that, for the most part, it’s pretty simple to see what I have done and how I’ve done it. And, that’s a good thing.

PE: Karl Lagerfeld said of his Chanel Couture Fall 14 line in which I paired with your work that the collection is representative of “a journey from Corbusier to Versailles…”, a union between the Brutalist and baroque. Can you speak about the tensions in your own work and how the bringing together of aesthetic opposites can lead to something entirely fresh and dynamic?

JH: That’s a nice Lagerfeld quote and a good idea on his part. I’ve always felt that working in abstraction, it is an absolute necessity to create a context within the artwork for one’s particular visual vocabulary. Obviously this isn’t a new or uncommon idea, as juxtaposition or the collision of aesthetic counterpoints has been evidenced in artworks for a long time. In my case, the artworks are built on a rigid grid structure and that is the foil, against which, the organic, flowing compositions are positioned. Given this grid of units, all of the experiments and elements of chaos that I develop within the work are given context in the piece. Things have meaning because of context and I think that juxtaposition of opposites is a terrific device to give new meaning to the artwork. At the same time, through such universal devices, I’m to continue to participate in the very human exploration of language and meaning.

PE: I of course see many common threads in your work and this couture collection. The idea of this landscape of patterns that you’ve created in an environmental installation I could see being translated into collaboration with a clothing designer. Is this something you would ever be interested in, are there are any designers you especially admire?

JH: I have to admit that I’m a bit of a philistine when it comes to fashion…..given that however, I certainly know that I owe a great debt to the textures and design decisions that drive fashion’s creative engine. It’s everywhere in the art world and the city’s landscape. We’ll see what the future holds in regards to fashion collaborations, but if the project and the designer is curious and the project is fun, I’d be completely willing to jump. In the meantime, I’ve got a lot of projects to keep me busy in the studio.

PE: As I seek surrounding myself with art and architecture for inspiration and to take myself out of my own head. As an artist and with the expectation to be constantly creating, what is refreshing to you, where do you go or what do you do?

JH: I have very simple tastes really. I like to ride my bicycle and I like to spend time upstate where it’s quiet and I can take time to think and dream about new projects and possibilities. While I’ve lived in cities for most of my adult life, I really prefer the quiet, boring, mundanity of the country. It’s the best place for me to work, think, and invent.

Chanel Fall 2014 Couture gown & sandals

Mary Boone Gallery, Jacob Hashimoto, Skyfarm Fortress

Hair by Cosma De Marinis, Makeup by Andrew Sotomayor for Chanel Beauty, Photographs by Tylor Hou

Silver Lines

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A raw, refined aesthetic combined with the layering of textures and materials make up the surrounds of Jason Gringler’s studio. His glass paintings are at once minimal and complex, solid yet evanescent. The perfect place to go and clear my head and to create my next Gap Styld.by session. Playing off the existing dichotomies, I threw this Gap oversized western plaid shirt over my favorite Helmut Lang leather leggings. To add a kick I finished the look with my new Saint Laurent glitter boots, the silver lining to these pared down basics.

Gap shirt, Helmut Lang leather legging, Saint Laurent glitter boots

Jason Gringler, Studio

Photographs by Jason Gringler

Lush Volumes

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For my first foray into styling another for an art fashion pairing, there could be no better subject then my stunning friend Athena Calderone aka EyeSwoon. I met up with Athena not far from her summer home at The Parrish Art Museum in Water Mill. Within the walls of Herzog & de Meuron’s monumental barn structure lies work that focuses on the artist colony of Long Island. Drawing upon the dense volumes and reflective materials of John Chamberlain, the lyrical abstract shapes of Caio Fonseca, and the lush colors of Howard Kanovitz I decked Athena in Delpozo and we swirled through the galleries. A fellow former architecture student, Josep Font, the creative director of Delpozo is everything to me right now. I couldn’t help but pair his voluminous tunic and chiffon culottes on a style icon such as Athena. All about the visual feast, EyeSwoon is a haven for all things creative. It was a surreal moment to style someone I’ve looked up to as I develop my own visual language.

Delpozo tunic, Delpozo culottes, Azzedine Alaia sandals

The Parrish Art Museum

Photographs by Tylor Hou

Splashing Color & Light

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Always one to fall for a casual cool basic, this post marks the first of a series of four looks I’ve created for the Gap styld.by campaign. For each look, I’ll put my own twist on a simple Gap piece using my environment as a point of styling inspiration. I started here within Spencer Finch’s kaleidoscopic installation at the Morgan Library. Washing the four-story Renzo Piano designed atrium with color and light, Finch’s site specific work conceptualized from the Morgan’s collection of medieval Books of Hours is captivating. The 365 squares of color based on each day of the year are organized to have shifting effects throughout the season as the angle of the sun changes. I chose to add another layer of interest to my Gap black skinny jeans and carry the color-block through onto this Roksanda Ilincic bright-blue, apple-green and ivory top. Playing on proportions and splashing color adds a hint of vivid into my styld.by story mix.

Roksanda Ilincic top, Gap skinny jean, Maison Martin Margiela leather wedge sandals

Spencer Finch, Morgan Library

Photographs by Tylor Hou

Mod Collage

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Fantastical collage sculpture meets fresh and feminine silhouettes. Enter into the dreamy world of design collaboration between artist, Dustin Yellin and designer, Misha Nonoo for Nonoo’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection. A brilliant pairing for a designer known for her modern takes on traditional cuts and reinterpretation of painterly prints. Surrounded by the surrealist romance of Yellin’s life size glass, collage, and acrylic series Psychogeographies, my art & fashion fantasies came to life as I debuted the collection alongside the works in which they were inspired. Mod forms and delicate unexpected details brought another layer of artistic influence to the collection of pieces splashed with elements of eccentric pop wonder. In the midst of Yellin’s sweeping studio space a violet and white mini dress with flower bombs reflects through a piece of floating digital geometries and kaleidoscopic bursts. Beaming amongst the ethereal glass soldiers is Nonoo’s flirty galactic printed wrap dress with kimono belt. A lover of print on print, lastly is this limited edition top and matching skirt mirroring the turquoise blue sediment glass layers that hold the magic of Yellin’s work. Marked by flirty artistic pops and delicate detailing, Nonoo’s pieces are otherworldly as the art.

Nonoo Spring/Summer 2015, Alexander Wang sandals

Pioneer Works, Dustin Yellin

Photographs by Tylor Hou

Neon Lights

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Perhaps the most magical discovery of my summer was the Dan Flavin Art Institute in Bridgehampton. The renovated firehouse and former church is home to Flavin’s breathtaking nine works in fluorescent light. Conceptualized as a space where the light sculptures and architecture could become one unified whole, the installation truly embodies the phenomenal power of Flavin’s work. Around each bend is a surprise bold geometric gesture of fluorescent light where you could almost linger forever watching the effects shift and change. Surrounded by a series of attention provoking contrasts I pulled on my own bright yellow neoprene jumper by Jacquemus, that too begged to be seen. The onesie of my neon dreams was culled from the downtown New York gem, Maryam Nassir Zadeh. Color, light, and form upon me from every direction, here my senses were enlivened on high.

Jacquemus jumper, Maison Martin Margiela platform sandals

The Dan Flavin Art Institute, Dan Flavin

Photographs by Tylor Hou

Mystical Expression

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Gestural, free and brimming with emotive energy are Joan Mitchell’s Trees at Cheim & Read. Her works, rooted in abstract expressionism are a lyrical blend of looking inward and outward and in the moment finding one’s own way. Moving across the canvas with her richly hued, paint saturated brushwork Mitchell attempts to capture a feeling while alluding towards the form and structure of the trees, which she abstracted throughout her career. Encapsulating the same sense of modern bohemia is this intricately embroidered tone on tone silk crepe maxi dress by Calypso. Elegant and fluid this dress is a dreamy accompaniment to Joan Mitchell’s minimal forest. A line that is rooted in all that is spirited and free radiates grace in the midst of Mitchell’s uniqueness of being.

Calypso dress, Gianvito Rossio sandals

Cheim & Read, Joan Mitchell, Trees

Hair by Cosma De Marinis, Photographs by Tylor Hou

More Calypso Inspired pairings

Organic Geometry

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Set on a hilltop in the Santa Monica Mountains is one of the most visually compelling spatially alluring built environments I’ve ever experienced. An afternoon at The Getty Center is like escaping to another planet where all the beauty of organic assembly and geometry come together in harmonious balance. Richard Meier’s masterpiece fulfills me on every level; lyrical curvilinear elements are offset by the structural composition of a perfect travertine grid. The light is magical, bouncing off the stone into the lush vegetation. Completing my California dream is this Zac Posen pool blue party dress; the silhouette and seamed paneling flirt with the architecture set against the summer sky. If you could leave me anywhere it would be here.

Zac Posen dress, Alexander Wang sandals

The Getty Center, Richard Meier

Photographs by Jason Gringler