Details are everything as evident in the magic of Jacob Hashimoto’s multi-colored collaged kite elements and the exquisite moments such as the concrete tiled beading seen in the Chanel Fall 2014 Couture Collection. Channeling the vibrance that is derived from beautiful juxtapositions I carry this through every detail. Here I document the complete look journey, through makeup, hair, and nails. I fell for the delicate heavy metal makeup look that Andrew Sotomayor for Chanel Beauty gave me, a modified version from the Fall 2014 Haute Couture runway. Staying Chanel through and through, manicurist Gina Viviano recreated Jacob’s mosaic patterned kites on my nails using Chanel’s Frenzy nail color as a base and then layered on the graphic shapes with Eastern Light and Orage. Lastly, my beloved friend and hair stylist, Cosma De Marinis drew inspiration from the giant floating cubes in the installation and built a geometric sculpture on top of my head by way of a tea box. Full detail disclosure of all things beauty below.
Andrew Sotomayor (Chanel Beauty): I adapted this look from the makeup for the Fall 2014 Haute Couture show and tweaked it to suit Pari. To get the look yourself, follow my tips below.
Since the look involves a very shimmery lid, I chose to start with the eye makeup first. First, I applied the silvery-white Illusion D’Ombre in Fantasme across just the mobile part of the lid using Large Shadow Brush #25. I added some into the inner corners as well using the Large Tapered Blending Brush #19. To help the cream shadow stay put, I pressed the lightest and the medium shades from Quadra Eyeshadow palette 93 Smoky Eyes, right on top. Using a patting motion helps to press on layers of shadow and increase the shine.
To get the winged cat eye effect, I used the La Ligne De Chanel Noir Lame cake eyeliner, three different ways. First, I wet the Precision Liner brush #13, picked up some liner, and swept it across her lashes. I used Contour Shadow Brush #14 to smudge the liner into the roots of her lashes. Then I used the liner again and a “press-and-drag” motion to create the wing, starting from the outer corner of the eye and pulling towards the center. Finally to create that deep dark line on the inner water line, I applied liner through the entire lower line on both eyes. I had Pari “squish” her eyes shut nice and tight to transfer liner to the top eye, then repeated the action once more. It stayed through the entire shoot without touching up, and it’s still the easiest product to remove at the end of the day.
I took the darker shade of Ombres Constraste Duo in Taupe Delicat through the brows using Angled Brow Brush #12, then made the brow crisper by sweeping the lighter shade across the brow bone using Concealer Brush #10.
To make Pari’s lashes look even fuller I used my favorite Chanel mascara, Inimitable in Black. I applied one coat, curled, and then applied a second coat. The trick is to press the narrow half of the brush right into the roots of the lashes. When you pull it away, it appears that you’ve applied eyeliner right between the roots of your lashes. I haven’t found another mascara that can do this.
To perfect the skin, I misted her lightly with Hydra Beauty Essence Mist and a pea sized amount of Hydra Beauty Gel Creme. Then, to give the skin brightness, and help the foundation apply more easily, I applied a Hydra Beauty Gel Creme all over using Foundation Brush #6. I wanted to just add some warmth, and a bit more polish without excessive coverage, so I used the same brush to apply Perfection Lumiere Velvet #40 Beige all over. To ensure that the makeup was perfectly blended, I went over it again with a clean Blending Foundation Brush #7. Not only does it make sure that the product disappears into the skin, it also gives it more of a glow. It’s the same effect as polishing a jewel.
Even the best of us needs a little concealer and I find that most of the time, one shade truly isn’t enough to look like you’re perfectly rested. To appear perfect Photoshopped even in real life try this! Apply Lift Lumiere in Apricot just to the inner corners to color correct any grey areas, then sketch Eclat Lumiere in 10 Beige Tendre under the entire eye and swept out across the cheekbones. Magic.
With a strong eye look like this, I like the face to be neutral, so I swept the Soleil Tan De Chanel Bronzing Makeup Base under the cheekbones for just a little warmth and a sculpted effect. I enhanced her cheekbones further using Les Beiges #50 for subtle contour. It was rainy outside that day, and I wanted to make sure her skin glowed without being too dewy, so I chose to highlight her cheekbones using Illusion D’Ombre in Emerveille using Blending Foundation Brush #7. It looks like dewy skin, but this technique ensures you shine only where you want to.
I love a nude lip, when it has just enough color to define your pout, and just enough pink to still look healthy. In this case, I applied Rouge Coco in Beige Felin, topped with Rouge Allure Extrait de Gloss in Insouciance for fullness with a creamy shine.
Cosma De Marinis: To create Pari’s sculptural updo I began by drying her hair upside down. I started to give the hair some texture and brushed it into a high ponytail. I then put a cardboard tea box on top of her head, the two opposite sides of the box were cut out so I was to able to secure it firmly to the top of the head with bobby pins. Then I sectioned a thin veil of hair from the ponytail, sprayed it with Elnett Satin Extra Strong Hairspray and began creating the shape around the box continuing to section and wrap the hair until it was covered completely. I used the flat iron to smooth the hair and define the edges. Lastly, I used Kiehl’s Crème with Silk Groom for added luster and smooth texture.
Chanel Fall 2014 Couture
Mary Boone Gallery, Jacob Hashimoto, Skyfarm Fortress
Hair by Cosma De Marinis, Makeup by Andrew Sotomayor for Chanel Beauty, Nails by Gina Viviano for Chanel Beauty, Photographs by Tylor Hou